HARVESTING

The year 1956 saw the launch of a ripening observation network that monitors crop conditions for the accurate timing of harvests. Twice a week, just as the grapes start to change colour (‘véraison’), samples are taken from some 450 control plots spread throughout the Champagne area. The selected clusters are then checked for rate of colour change; average weight; estimated sugar and total acidity content; and incidence of botrytis.

These findings indicate the degree of grape ripeness by variety and by cru, and the CIVC sets picking dates accordingly. The findings also serve to determine the quantity of grapes per hectare that will be approved for AOC production (as per INAO regulations); and the minimum required alcohol content by volume.

In good years, part of the crop may be set aside as a precaution against future crop failure (due to frost, hail, etc) or a disappointing vintage. Managing these reserve stocks (known as the ‘réserve individuelle’) is the responsibility of the CIVC.

Harvesting is entirely manual, but may be preceded by mechanical thinning to make life easier for the pickers. AOC regulations specify whole cluster pressing, effectively ruling out the use of mechanical grape harvesters as we know them today. Every year for about three weeks, around 100,000 pickers, porters, loaders and press operators descend on the vineyards of Champagne for the harvest – the moment every winegrower has been waiting for.

The newly picked grapes are transferred to perforated bins with a maximum capacity of 50 kilos. Drainage holes on the sides and bottom of the bins keep air circulating around the grapes and drain off any juice lost in the course of handling. Some 1,900 pressing centres, distributed across the AOC region, keep transit times to a minimum.